{"id":15531,"date":"2025-06-08T16:50:27","date_gmt":"2025-06-08T16:50:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cursist-courses.com\/what-methods-are-there-to-sign-your-work\/"},"modified":"2025-08-18T16:33:28","modified_gmt":"2025-08-18T16:33:28","slug":"what-methods-are-there-to-sign-your-work","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cursist-courses.com\/en\/what-methods-are-there-to-sign-your-work\/","title":{"rendered":"What methods are there to sign your work?"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Your latest creation is all done. Congrats! You’ve made this with your own two hands. And now the question is: did you sign it yet? Signing your work really is a must. For one thing, it ensures you can find your creation if you’re getting it fired in a busy pottery studio. And it means every admirer will know whose skilled hands created such a beautiful piece.<\/strong><\/p>

Does the word ‘signing” make you think of an ugly scribble with a permanent marker? It’s one way to sign your work, but there are a lot of better methods. We’ll go over five of them.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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1: With a stamp<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The first method to sign your work, is with a stamp<\/strong>. This method can only be used if your work is still leather-hard<\/a> (or even a bit softer). The advantage is that it’s a quick method, and it usually doesn’t take up much space. Be careful: don’t use a stamp on a spot where the clay is very thin. That could damage the integrity of your work.<\/p>

So where do you get a stamp? There are a lot of website where you can order a custom stamp. Or you can also make one yourself<\/strong>, with clay of course! Just make sure that you put the letters on your stamp backwards. That’s the only way to get the right result when you use the stamp.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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2: With sgraffito<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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A second method is with some underglaze and a sharp tool<\/strong>. This technique<\/a> is often used on the bottom of a bowl, cup, vase … you name it.<\/p>

First apply a layer of underglaze<\/a>, while your work is still leather-hard. Once the glaze has dried, use a sharp instrument like a needle tool to carve your name in the clay. And why not add some decorative curls while you’re at it. Wipe away the clay residue, and you’re done!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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3: With a pencil<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Is your work not leather-hard yet? Then there’s no need for carving. You can simply write your name in the wet clay<\/strong> with the point of a pencil or pen. If you want an extra smooth result, you can cover the clay with a layer of plastic while you’re writing.<\/p>

Want to add some colour? Then you can use a ceramic pencil<\/a>. In that case you wait until your work has been bisque fired<\/a> before you sign it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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4: With inlaying<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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For those time where you don’t mind putting in some extra effort, there’s inlaying<\/a>. Apply a layer of wax resist to the bottom of your work, and let dry. Carve your name<\/strong> and other decorations, making sure you’re carving deep enough to reach the clay underneath.<\/p>

Wipe away the clay residue and apply a layer of underglaze<\/strong>. Make sure you reach every nook and cranny in the carving. Let dry for a little bit and then wipe away the excess glaze with a dry sponge. Once the wax has burned away in the kiln, only your name in glaze will remain.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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5: With (under)glaze<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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For some pieces you want to avoid carving<\/strong>. Take an oven dish for example. Because it will heat up and then cool down many many times, you want sturdy, solid walls. This method is also great for when you’ve forgotten to sign your work and the clay has already dried or been bisque fired.<\/p>

Choose your favourite underglaze<\/strong> and dilute it with water until it has the consistency of ink. Apply it with a fine brush, or use a glaze applicator. Although that last option does take some practise: you have to write quite fast because the glaze comes out very quickly. Made a mistake? If your work has already been bisque fired, you can still wipe away the glaze with a sponge. Practice makes perfect!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Your latest creation is all done. Congrats! You’ve made this with your own two hands. And now the question is: did you sign it yet? <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":20393,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_seopress_titles_title":"How to sign my handmade ceramics? | Cursist","_seopress_titles_desc":"How to sign your ceramics? 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